The table saw is the heart of any workshop. Buying the right table saw is critical, as it will affect the quality of your work, your productivity, and the limits of what you can actually build in your shop.
Table saws come in four categories and I will explain each one and outline the pros and cons of each. The table saw you ultimately buy will be greatly influenced by your budget, how much space you have available, and in some cases, the actual type of floor you’ll be working on.
Portable table saw ($150 to $300)
Gantry table saws are the most popular selections in most home shops due to their cost, weight, and size. These models can be installed directly on a workbench or on a floor stand. They are easy to handle, transport and move around the workshop. Some woodworkers with tight spaces will store them under their benches, in a corner, or even in a closet. Although these table saws offer low cost and portability, these saws have several drawbacks. Although suitable for the novice woodworker, cutting accuracy is somewhat limited. Inherent play in work guides and a small cut in a table can create acceptable cuts for many projects, but can be a problem with larger, more sophisticated jobs. To save costs, portal table saws have direct drive motors that run on 110 volts and are typically limited to one horsepower. Heavy, thick cuts are generally beyond the capabilities of this type of table saw. I have found that extensive use of these small saws eventually results in motor wear and the motor is not replaceable. Although they have limited power, saws are also quite noisy and usually start with a sharp jerk of the blade. One last problem with saws is their blade angle systems. Most use a rudimentary pivot system that is difficult to set up and can quickly become clogged with sawdust, making the mechanism stiff. Although these saws serve a purpose, you will likely want to upgrade them as your woodworking skills evolve.
Contractor Saws ($600 to $1,000)
These units resemble larger versions of the portable saw variety but with some significant improvements. Although typically mounted on a wheeled stand, these units are not portable and are limited to rolling around the shop at best. Weighing in most cases over 250 pounds, they are not portable. Most of your weight is on the motor and the table top. Larger motors up to 3 horsepower and larger cast iron tables offer higher cutting capacities. Well-designed cutting guides with low tolerance levels also offer a much more precise cut. Most contractor saws run on 220 volts and use a belt-driven motor system. Starts and stops are smoother and quieter, and if you want to upsize the motor in the future or replace a burnt-out one, the process is easy and straightforward. Most contractor saws also have worm gear-driven blade tilt systems that are more precise and less prone to binding due to sawdust buildup. One drawback to contractor saws is their open cabinet design, much like the portable saw. This makes dust accumulation difficult to control. Despite this drawback, contractor saws offer many great features for the intermediate woodworker. Even as your skill levels evolve, contractor saws can provide you with many years of dependable service.
Hybrid saws ($1,000 to $2,000)
These are a relatively new addition to the class of saws available on the market. They are a cross between the contractor saws and the larger cabinet saws and typically offer more of a cabinet-to-floor structure than the contractor saw configuration. These saws will usually house the belt driven motor inside the cabinet. This makes dust collection more efficient and the saw also runs quieter. These saws are heavier, usually in the 350 pound range, and feature larger motors starting at 3 horsepower. Like the contractor’s saw, they have worm gear-driven blade tilting systems and larger cast-iron tables. Many hybrid saws can be equipped with table extensions to make it easier to cut larger blades.
Cabinet Saws ($2,000-$10,000)
Cabinet saws are amazing and prohibitively expensive pieces of equipment for most hobby woodworkers. They are heavy and require a solid cement floor to rest on. Cabinet saws also take up a lot of space, especially when equipped with large table extensions. They all run on 240-volt power and motor sizes range from 3 to 6 horsepower. Some expensive industrial units even run on 3-phase power, which is not available in a home. They offer maximum precision and cutting capacity and while most of the saws listed use a 10″ blade, some cabinet saws work with a larger 12″ blade which increases cutting capacity even more. The cost and size of this carpenter’s dream limits these units to large shops with solid concrete floors and big budgets.
buying strategy
If you can afford to buy a new contractor saw, consider this one of your best options. A good contractor’s saw will serve you for many years and produce quality work. If it’s not in your budget, consider a portable saw as a temporary measure with the plan to upgrade to a contractor saw in the future. Think carefully before you make the jump to a hybrid or cabinet saw. Justify the expense and make sure you have
Forty years ago, I bought my first portable table saw from a newspaper ad (the Internet wasn’t invented then!). The nice man sold it to me with a bracket for $20 and I was able to get into woodworking. For the past four decades, I have owned all of the types of saws described in this article, depending on the job I was doing and the space I had to work with. I still believe that the best investment is a contractor’s saw. A few years ago a guy was selling one in Kijiji and I was able to buy his barely used contractor’s saw for the price of a new portable saw. Obviously the contractor saw was much better and has served me well since 2012. I have two other contractor saws that I have used for over 25 years. They have proven to be solid and durable saws that allow me to produce good quality work.
A final word on table saws
When shopping for a table saw, look at the blade’s tilt direction. Currently, most saws tilt to the left, however some models are configured for blades tilting to the right. I will go into more detail in another article about all the pros and cons of these two different setups. However, in general, right-handed woodworkers are more compatible with left-leaning models. Also, when it comes to bevel cuts, left-leaning saws are safer to use. While right-tilt models have some measurement and production advantages, most woodworkers will find left-tilt blade saws easier and safer to operate.
Summary
Always try to buy the best type of saw you can afford. Cheap portable saws can create limitations and tend to wear out quickly with constant use. Consider the dust collection capabilities of the one you’re considering, as well as the power requirements (do you need to install a 240-volt outlet?).
There are a lot of gently used saws out there. Consider buying a better designed used saw instead of a cheap new one.