Today we’re going to talk about an Italian dessert called Zeppole (the singular term is Zeppola and in southern dialects it’s Zeppoli) and it looks like it’s a type of donut. This is a “new to me” dessert, but I think I’ve made these in the past and didn’t realize what they were called.
Wikipedia defines Zeppoli as “commonly light fried dumplings about 2 inches in diameter.” They are known as donuts or fritters and he goes on to say that they are usually coated with powdered sugar and can be filled with custard, jelly and cannoli-style custard or a mixture of butter and honey. The texture or consistency varies from light and puffy to bready or pasta. Are you getting the picture I’m painting here? Do you think you have done them too? The Wikipedia article goes on to give several other names for this cake; Saint Joseph cake, Bignè di S. Giuseppe, fingers and baked cream puffs. It is said that it can be stuffed with anchovy or ricotta stuffed with chocolate chips, candied fruits and honey. How many of you have made baked cream puffs, cut off the top and filled the center cavity with vanilla, chocolate or caramel pudding or custard, then replaced the top and sprinkled powdered sugar on top? I have made them for years! I never thought I was making an Italian dessert!
When I researched the history, this is what I found: Zeppole, or St. Joseph’s Cake, or sphinx, Bignè di S. Giuseppe is a cake you’d typically find in Roman, Neapolitan, and generally peninsular Italian kitchens, as well as Sicily. and the island of Malta. They are pastries that are usually consumed in The Feast of San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph’s Day celebrated in Italy on March 19). In Rome, Naples and Sicily, Wikipedia continues, these cakes are sold on the streets and sometimes even given away on this celebrated day. In Calabria, the anchovy or sultana variety is typically eaten on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
Another research source reports that the St. Joseph’s Day tradition originated in Sicily during a period of severe drought. The people prayed to Saint Joseph for rain and promised him a great party in his honor if he would answer his prayers. Well, apparently St. Joseph complied with his request; he rained and hosted a holiday named in his honor that was celebrated throughout history beginning in the Middle Ages and is still observed today. This day is considered a day of generosity and has come to be celebrated as a way to honor Saint Joseph and share good fortune with the poor in his communities. The tables do not contain meat as this holiday falls in Lent and the old Catholic tradition has a meat restriction during the Lenten season. Here is an interesting fact that I will share, since the tradition began in Sicily, where there is more fish than meat, many of the breads take the form of fish. Can you imagine that? Great huh!
I checked several other sources and found the story line to be more or less the same. There seems to be a lot of effort put into the celebration, with street vendors, children’s games, gifts for sale, and all manner of Italian desserts available for consumption and gift giving. The celebration is still observed today and the mere mention of the St. Joseph’s Day celebration brings smiles and many, many memories to southern Italians.
I used to do this for my friends and family’s kids. I didn’t really have a name for them… I just called them “things”. They were fried and dusted with any combination of granulated white sugar, powdered sugar, and cinnamon. The kids loved them and the cakes disappeared like magic. I’m sure you’ll get the same result if you make them for your “kids” of all ages.